My introduction to the wild life began somewhere during my adolescence when I found a second hand copy of `Nine Man-Eaters and one Rogue (1954) by Kenneth Anderson. Big cats with glowing eyes stalked my dreams as I hunted down the Man-Eater of Jowlagiri and the Spotted Devil of Gumlapur in a local library. Already […]


A wild eyed boy runs shrieking across the smouldering coal pit. His face is a turmeric paste mask on which an intricate tattoo of red and white dots has been painted to circle his eyes. He wears green bangles and flowers in his hair.He runs past, hands outstretched. His glazed eyes are unseeing. I have […]

The casket with photographs.Pic courtesy: P Ramaswamy.

On a wind torn evening, a group of worried men huddled around an imposing column in the middle of a crossroad near Lalbagh. They had been given the task of constructing it only ten days ago. The column was to mark the inauguration of a new suburb in South Bangalore and C. Rajagopalachari, the last […]

Hostel facade

Two boys whack a table tennis ball across a shiny red oxide floor right above the Karur Vysya Bank on Avenue Road. Dharmaprakasha Sri SV Sreenivasa Setty watches them from a portrait on the wall. He wears the Ganda Berunda, a bejewelled two-headed eagle, the symbol of the Mysore Maharajas that is now the official state […]

IMG_7302 - Copy

The first time I saw a hand woven, pure silk Molakalmuru sari, I could almost see the peacocks dance on the pallu and border. After obsessing over it for a few weeks, I decided to track it down in Bangalore’s busy silk market- Chickpet. Plan B was to hotfoot it to the weaving centres in Molakalmuru […]


And ATC makes it to the Huffington Post! “Food has certainly moved from the private sphere to more public conversations, allowing up-and-coming individuals and group to display refinement, knowledge, and connoisseurship through their culinary choices. Inevitably the numbers of those who fancy themselves as experts has grown exponentially. However, there are some who write about […]


I trot purposefully from the busy Chickpete-Doddapete junction on Avenue Road down towards Nagarthpete,  following the path taken by one of four legendary bulls that were let loose here by Kempegowda I, the 16th century founder of Bangalore. It would have pounded furiously down this road centuries ago, heading, like the others, in the cardinal directions […]


I am sitting in Maratha Darshan off Queens Road. The nati chicken curry I am eating looks relatively innocent, but it conceals a ferocious green chilli paste that periodically flashes fire.  It brings to mind Soyarabai, a feisty 17th century Maratha lady, sister of the powerful military commander Hambir (Hansaji) Rao Mohite. Bangalore is where […]


Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 225 other followers