Balepet. If only the walls could speak.

(A continuation of the account of the Bangalore Mutiny, 1832) According to the court martial  report Mohammed Yacoob, private, Shaikh Ahmed, private, Horse Artillery, Yacoob Khan, private, Horse Artillery, Shaikh Jaffer, private, 48th N.I, Honoor Khan, private, 9th N.I, Shaikh Mohammed, private, Horse Artillery were to be shot to death by musketry. These sentences were […]

The Pete, a busy commercial centre

The men slipped through the shadows like wraiths. The silent Bangalore Pete (pay-tay) offered no resistance at that late hour. A quick knock and they were soon locked in a tight huddle. The plan was outlined in whispers by Hyder Ali Khan, the man who called himself Nawab. It was simple but efficient. At the […]

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On any given afternoon, Nagarthpete is where the term`street theatre’  gets a new twist. School children rush offstage. Cows wander in from the right. Heroes in tight t-shirts lounge indolently while Marwari housewives argue on cue with vegetable vendors in fluent Tamil. Seated on a chair outside his shop,  Sri Bharathamatha Theatricals, BJ Srinivas and a few […]

Belaku 3

On a quiet lane in JP Nagar Phase I, a whirlwind is at work. Project Director at Belaku Trust, Dr. Saraswathy Ganapathy answers phone calls, scrutinises a stuffed cotton turtle toy, marks a memo, talks to a French volunteer and asks me if I have had lunch. All at the same time. Her energy is […]


“Kya Baa!  Main kitta bulaya tumna, dekhech nai na. Akele baarish mein khadleko khareein kya!” he says accusingly, catching up with a friend who stands loaded plate in hand, guilt written all over his face. Rain drips off the tarpaulin that barely covers the sizzling grill and immolates itself in the angry coal below. It belches smoke, […]

The Maddur Vada

I just love Bangalore during the monsoon. While the cold, grey sky and damp, chilly weather could bring on a bout of SADS for many; I firmly believe that it is a time for sodden walks in the born again Cubbon Park followed by chattering with friends over piping hot filter coffee and my favourite […]

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Far from their ancient city built by the Mirs on the east bank of the Indus River is the reclusive Sindhi Colony in Cox Town. This quiet residential area with modest houses is located right opposite the Indian Gymkhana at the intersection of Wheeler and Assaye Road. The temple, Sindhi Association, Sindhi Primary School (1954) […]


There’s a Goddess stuck on 10th Street in Jogupalaya. Her `poo palakki’ (flower palanquin) is a little larger than the narrow street so she’s in a bit of a fix. Its already 4 am and despite being up all night, there is much to do before before she makes it to the ancient Someshwara Temple nearby. Like […]


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