On the spot freshness

After almost two weeks of incessant rain, the city thermostat has dipped to what we Bengalureans might call a deep freeze.  While older residents say this socks and muffler weather reminds them of a time `when we didn’t even have ceiling fans at home’, I tell myself that a cup of hot tea and perhaps a bonda-bhajji […]


Nobody, not even those connected to his legacy really know what prompted a young man named BK Mariappa residing in Nagarthapete to suddenly write his will and testament at the age of 35. The document was completed around the 4th-5th of March, 1914 and the codicil was annexed on 8th March of the same year. Instructions were […]

A haven of continuity.

I sometimes think that the history of India was influenced not just by battles and boundary extensions but also banquets. Vintage albums of India in the making contain innumerable images of dignitaries exchanging pleasantries or negotiating the future of their people while seated at formal dining arrangements. But in those photographs dominated by star personalities were other men […]


I was at a Dussehra Puja Pandal celebrating the beautiful martial Goddess Durga last week. It was filled with excited Bengalis and curious non-Bhadralok who eventually jostled together at the food stalls to tuck into plates of Luchi-Cholar Dal, Bhetki fish cutlets and stir fried banana flower. The growing number of Pandals each year point […]

Haji Osman Sait

I was standing outside the swank automobile showrooms in India Garage the other day, watching excited owners roll out onto St Marks Road in their ribbon wrapped cars. Many of them swung into the petrol bunk here, to fill up their first full tank. Ironically, the petrol bunk outside this graceful building was where around 1920, […]

IMG_6733 - Copy

Rhenius Street begins off Richmond Road at the corner of Baldwin Girls High School (1880) and meanders past temples, the Richmond Town Park, some massive but beautiful banyan trees and the Akkithimmanahalli Tank (now a playground and Hockey Stadium amongst other things) before reaching Nanjappa Circle at the other end. Come walk down with me […]

Long before cupcakes and other fancy sweet nothings arrived to influence neural signals and brain activity in modern Bengaluru, the late 19th century saw several bakeries popping up to cater to soldiers in the Cantonment. By the early 1900’s European confectioners including the Italian, G Baccala, on South Parade (Baccala’s is now the Deccan Herald […]

The much coveted Sugar Bowl at Koshy's.

I’m going to get you a Koshy’s special fried egg sandwich!” says P Oommen Koshy (aka Prem) and disappears into the kitchen. While I wait, I smile at familiar faces, chat with those who stop by and recognise regulars who, like me, have cut their milk teeth in Parade Café (Koshy’s Restaurant) on St.Mark’s Road. […]


Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 368 other followers